Did you know that we no longer measure skin type using the Fitzpatrick scale?
For decades, dermatology (especially in the West) relied on the Fitzpatrick scale to classify skin types. However, this method wasn’t actually based on skin color but on how a person’s skin responded to sun exposure—specifically, how easily the skin burned or tanned.
This scale, while groundbreaking at the time, became the foundation for SPF testing in sunscreens. But here’s the problem: it excluded people with skin of color (SOC).
Why the Fitzpatrick phototypes Don't Work for Us
People with darker skin tones, like those in India, don’t react to sun exposure the same way lighter skin tones do. Instead of becoming red (erythema), darker skin tones may tan or show no immediate visible change. Since sunscreen testing depends on measuring redness, the Fitzpatrick-based system fails to reliably represent how sunscreens perform for SOC populations.
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Introducing the Individual Typology Angle (ITA) Scale
Recognizing these limitations, dermatology shifted to the Individual Typology Angle (ITA) scale. Unlike Fitzpatrick, which focuses on sunburn response, ITA measures:
- Lightness
- Yellowness
- Redness
The ITA angle derived from these metrics correlates directly with the melanin content in the skin, making it a more accurate tool for understanding SOC. In the image of the skin samples, you can see that the melanin concentration increases in the groups with darker skin.
What does this mean for us?
Melanin is both a natural sunscreen and a risk factor for pigmentation, which is a primary concern for those with darker skin tones. Most Indians fall into the intermediate to tanned categories on the ITA scale. This means:
- We have natural protection against skin cancer from UV radiation (thanks to melanin).
- We are more prone to pigmentation, including from visible light, something lighter skin tones rarely face.
Because of this, true sun protection for Indian skin types requires sunscreens that protect not just against UV but also against visible light.
The ITA scale is a step forward—it’s inclusive, globally relevant, and addresses the unique needs of SOC populations. For Indian skin, the focus should shift from sunburn prevention to pigmentation protection. For now, we should look for sunscreens designed specifically to protect against visible light, a must-have for darker skin tones. For the future, sunscreen testing is likely to evolve to specifically address pigmentation concerns for SOC.